A brow expert shared a simple face mapping technique that can help anyone find their ideal brow shape. Amanda Robinson, owner of Iris+West Lash Co in Los Angeles, has worked with clients including Mandy Moore and Molly Baz. She recommends a three-point method before tweezing or filling in brows.
To find the right shape, place a pencil vertically from the corner of the nose upward. That marks where the brow should begin. Then, angle the pencil diagonally from the dimple of the nose to the outside of the iris. That is where the arch should peak. Finally, tilt the pencil from the side of the nostril to the outer corner of the eye. That shows where the brow should end.
“Those three points give you your ideal start, arch, and end,” Robinson said. She added that the top and bottom lines of the brow should run parallel, like railroad tracks.
Work With What You Have
Robinson advises against fighting natural brow shapes. “My biggest piece of advice is to work with what you naturally have,” she said. She noted that some people have more arch, while others have straighter or more rounded brows. She said people feel their best when the shape is refined without forcing a change.
On thickness, Robinson said shape and arch matter more than how thick or thin the brows are. “As a general rule, bolder brows tend to suit stronger, more prominent features, while thinner brows complement more delicate ones,” she said. She added that fuller brows can give a more youthful look. Still, she said whatever makes a person feel confident is what looks best.
Common Brow Mistakes
Robinson said the biggest mistake she sees is cutting brows too flat and straight across the top. Her fix is to trim one hair at a time, brush them in the desired direction, and go slowly. “You can always take more off, but you can’t put hair back,” she said.
Other mistakes include using harsh products on brows, choosing the wrong shade, and expecting perfect symmetry. Robinson said brows are sisters, not twins. She also said skipping brow care is a mistake.
How to Support Brow Growth
For those regrowing brows after over-tweezing or years of thin trends, Robinson recommends peptide-based serums. “Peptides condition and strengthen the hair follicle and promote healthy growth,” she said. She advised caution with prostaglandin analogs, which can stimulate growth but may have side effects. She suggested checking with a dermatologist before using them.
The expert also shared product recommendations. For brow pencils, she highlighted options that use light, hair-like strokes and a spoolie for blending. For gels, she noted that clear formulas work on any brow color, while tinted ones add soft fill. For serums, she said consistency is key, as they work on the follicle level over time, not instantly.
